TERM	DESCRIPTION
a-line shape	A body style having a close-fitting top and a flared bottom.
ainsley	or ainsley spread collar. A plain tennis collar which has spread points. The spread shortens the points. This collar also has slots for inserting collar stays.
airsoft finish	As the name implies, a finish giving a fabric a softer hand.
alligator	Exotic grains, long-wearing leather. Most are imported and are very expensive.
alpaca	Fiber from an animal resembling a llama, it can be used in pile fabrics for insulated coats.
American camel hair	Supreme soft fabric containing camel hair or a similar fiber. cloth made of camel hair or a mixture of camel hair and wool usually light tan and of soft silky texture.
ancient madder	Process characterized by deep, muted tones and hand that resembles the peachy finish and feel of fine suede. The Ancient Madder dying process continues to produce silk of singular beauty.
aniline calfskin	Calfskin leather that has been dyed with aniline, an oily liquid. This process gives the leather a soft feel.
antique brass	Brass that has been darkened by the use of chemicals.
antique wash	Process that gives the fabric a worn, slightly washed out look.
argyle	Design often used for knitwear and hosiery: two or three colors in a diamond shaped design.
attaché	A flap front briefcase where the flap closes halfway down the front, with a top handle.
badger bristles	Short, stiff coarse hairs from the badger, used in our shaving brush.
balmoral	A closed-throat shoe with a laced front.
band	The part that encircles the wrist.
band collar	A collar having just the neckband, but no collar attached to it.
band end piece	The part of the band that connects to the lugs; the band width is measured by the end piece.
bar stripe	A straight stripe or band that is much longer that it is wide.
barrel cuffs	Single lined cuffs with a regular button and buttonhole closing.
baseball neckline	A collar similar to that of the uniform worn by a baseball player.
basketweave	Variation of a plain weave fabric in which two or more yarns are worked in the warp and weft, used mostly in shirting.
batik print	Indonesian way of dyeing fabric in which waxed areas resist the dye and unwaxed areas are penetrated by it.
beechwood	A fabric resembling the color of the beech tree (which has a smooth, gray bark).
belgium linen	Linen fabric made in Belgium
bemberg lining	Bemberg is a brand name of rayon fabric, of the finest quality. It is used for our suit and sportcoat linings, and is the softest, finest lining available
bengal stripe	Colorfully striped fabric shipped to world markets from Bengal, India; used for sportshirts, pajamas, and more.
besom pockets	Pocket with a stitched fold on both the upper and lower sides.
bezel	The rim of the case.
billfold	Another name for a type of a man's wallet.
birdseye	Fabric characterized by a small geometric pattern with a center dot resembling a bird's eye.
blackwatch	A plaid pattern in hunter/royal/black.
blake construction	Fancy name for the way upper leather is sewn to the sole of the shoe. It denotes a reinforced, well constructed shoe - similar to Goodyear construction.
blazer stripe	A fabric pattern with wide-spaced thin stripes.
bluchers	Shoes having the tongue and vamp cut in one piece and the quarters lapped over the vamp and laced together for closing.
bluff edge	When the edges of a garment are not topstitched.
boarskin	Leather of boar with a remarkably superior quality.
boston bag	An overnight bag.
boucle	A fabric woven from curled or twisted yarn so as to produce small loops on the surface, giving it a kinky appearance.
box pleat	A two-sided fold in the garment resembling a panel, with the edges facing opposite directions.
braces	Suspenders.
braided	Woven or knitted material used for trimming or binding.
brass	An alloy consisting essentially of copper and zinc in variable proportions.
breton stripe	A fabric pattern with very widely-spaced thin stripes.
bridle leather	Type of leather that is used in traditional Saddlery ( saddles, whips etc.)
broadcloth	Plain, closely woven fabric, lighter than poplin, finely textured.
brooksease	Our exclusive high performance, natural double-stretch wool. It provides exceptional comfort, ease of movement, and resists wrinkling. The midweight, all-wool fabric is soft and supple to the touch, and perfect for year-round wear.
BrooksFlannel	A Brooks Brothers trade mark, this revolutionary flannel is born from a combination of 80% cotton and 20% wool for a remarkably soft hand.
BrooksStorm	A BrooksStorm garment is made from the finest, specialty treated natural fibers for all-weather protection. It is windproof, water-resistant, lightweight and comfortable with elegant styling, even in the most inclement conditions.
brushed brass	One type of textured brass having a matte finish produced by running a wire brush across the surface.
buffalo check	Design of big squares or blocks, in fairly heavy fabrics. It is used for shirts and outerwear.
burnished	To polish metal with a coarse or smooth cloth.
burnt horn button	Large horn button with large wholes. The back is smooth and flat. Each button is unique as they are hand carved
butterfly bowtie	Bow tie with flared ends, designed for a small knot.
button down collar	A collar held down at the points by buttons originated in the nineteenth century by English polo players and introduced to America by Brooks Brothers.
cable	A knitted stitch used that resembles a twisted cable. It gives the garment a textured appearance, and is used in sweaters.
caduceus	An insignia bearing a staff with 2 entwined snakes and 2 wings at the top, symbolizing a physician.
calfskin	Leather from a young calf, it is smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, and durable. It does not scuff easily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well.
camel hair	Fiber from a camel, ranging in color from natural to brown. It can be used alone or blended with wool. It comes from the underside of the camel, and is lustrous and very soft.
candy stripe	Equal-width stripes of a color and white on fabrics used for shirts and sportswear.
canvas	Strong, closely-woven plain weave fabric, usually made from cotton, linen or hemp. Originally used to make sails.
cap sleeve	A very short sleeve that hangs over the edge of the shoulder without extending along the underside of the arm.
cap toe	A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe; used on oxford-type shoes.
capri pants	Close-fitting women's pants that end above the ankle.
cardigan	Refers to any sweater or jacket that buttons down the front. It can have a round or v-neck.
cashmere	Wool from the undercoat of the long-haired Kasmir goat, which is woven or knitted into soft fabrics that are luxurious to the touch. It is a fine, close weave.
cavalry twill	A strong wool fabric with a steep, pronounced double twill effect. In the beginning a staple army fabric, with a clear, hard finish, it is now used in coats, suits, jackets and riding pants.
cedar	The wood of a tree of the pine family noted for its fragrance and durability.
center vent	A split in the center lower part of a garment (jacket or skirt).
chambray	Woven cotton, polyester, or rayon fabric with a colored warp and white filling; used for shirts and other apparel.
charmeuse	A lightweight silk, cotton, or manmade fiber dress fabric which is soft and drapes well. It is smooth, has a semi-lustrous satin face and a dull back.
chemise	A woman's straight, loose dress.
chesterfield	Plain-back, slightly shaped overcoat, in either a single-breasted fly front or a double-breasted style. Named for the sixth Earl of Chesterfield and considered by many to be the most formal and classic town coat a gentleman can wear.
chiffon	A transparent sheer fabric in a plain weave. Extremely light in weight but very strong, it usually has a soft finish.
chinos	All cotton twill fabric used for trousers and sportswear.
chronograph	A timepiece with both timekeeping and stopwatch functions.
chukka boot	Boot that extends above the ankle and fastens with a lace through two eyelets. It has a rubber or leather sole.
cigar clipper	An instrument for clipping or snipping off the end of a cigar.
cigar cutter	An instrument used for cutting a cigar, shaped like scissors.
clark fit	Plain-front, straight cut through hip and thigh, straight leg opening.
coatdress	A dress styled like a coat, usually with a front buttoning from the neckline to the hemline.
collar stays	Thin brass or plastic strips that run down the inside of the collar to the points to give it a flat appearance; can be permanent or removable.
Colombo cashmere	Italian best cashmere quality producer.
combed cotton	Combing is a process that removes all the short fibers, making it stronger and finer. It is a higher-quality fabric.
Coolmax®	Coolmax® is a remarkable fiber has the ability to wick moisture away from the skin and dry quickly. Soft, lightweight and very breathable.
cord stitching	On a man's moccasin, IT refers to the leather lace overcast stitching on the upper part of the shoe.
cordovan	Leather from the hindquarters of the horse. It is non-porous, durable, resistant to scuffing, very expensive, and long-wearing.
corduroy	A durable cotton pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales--the less ribs per inch, the wider the wale.
corozo (buttons)	Button made from the famous South American tagua nut.
cortina	Leather that has been processed with a vegetable dye.
cotton	Made by weaving two thin vertical yarns with a single thicker horizontal yarn. The yarns are more slender, making the fabric feel thinner, lighter and lustrous. Pima can also be knitted into sweaters, characterized by their luster and fine handfeel.
cotton flake	Flake yarns are variations of the slub yarns. The yarn varies in thickness and softness, giving it a textured appearance.
cowhide	Leather made from the hides of cows.
crepe	A light crinkled fabric woven of any various fibers.
crew neck	A high, round collarless neckline with a rib finishing. Popularized by crew racers, this neckline is now popular in T-shirts and sweaters.
cross-stitched (buttons)	A stitch made up of two diagonal stitches crossing each other.
crow's foot pattern	A triangular-shaped pattern resembling the foot of a crow.
crown	The outer knob used to set the watch.
crystal	The outer transparent cover above the face.
cummerbund	Waistband of solid or patterned silk or other fabric, made with or without pleats, for wear with a dinner jacket.
cut through pockets	Pockets that allow easy access through both the shell and lining of a coat to your clothing pockets.
darts	A fold of fabric stitched to a point at one or both ends, giving shape to a garment.
date wheel	Displays the day of the month.
deerskin	Skin of a female deer or antelope, usually in white or natural shades, but sometimes in colors.
dial	The face of the watch under the hands.
dinner jacket	Evening jacket for semi-formal or formal wear. It may be single or double-breasted, with lustrous facing on peaked lapels or shawl collar.
dobby	Fabric with small figures woven in, such as dots, geometric designs, floral patterns, etc. They are found in shirt and tie fabrics.
doeskin	A closely woven woolen worsted fabric with a slightly napped surface, used for sportswear and slacks.
donegal	A knit or tweed with coarse multicolored yarns with nubs that are combined with single-colored yarns to produce a mottled, pebbly result.
dopp kit	A men's travel size shaving/toiletry kit, with a zipper closure, side zip compartment, and inside pocket.
double face cloth	Overcoat material composed of two fabrics joined together with a binder yarn. Either side can be used as the face.
double-bar horizontal repp	A stripe fabric pattern of two closely-spaced thin stripes, with one wide stripe in between.
double-breasted	Term applied to a jacket or coat in which the fabric overlaps by a few inches in the front. There are 2 vertical rows of buttons and a single row of buttonholes with a single button on the underside to secure the fabric on the inside.
double-faced wool	Wool fabrics that are finished on both sides to confer a supreme quality to the textile.
Dow XLA™	A revolutionary, olefin-based elastic fiber that, when blended with traditional fibers like cotton or wool, offers a soft stretch, unprecedented durability, ease of care, and the ability to keep color and shape, wash after wash.
duffel coat	A heavy, usually woolen medium length coat with toggle fasteners and a hood.
Egyptian cotton	Usually a better-quality cotton fiber produced in Egypt that is stronger and more lustrous than other grades of cotton.
elliot fit	Pleat-front, relaxed cut through hip and thigh, relaxed leg opening.
ELS	Extra-Long Staple cotton originated in the Southwest United States and is known for its superior fiber properties, luster and silkiness.
embossed	Leather treated with heat and pressure in a hydraulic press to give it a grained look.
enamel	A usually opaque substance applied by fusion to the surface of metal, glass, or pottery.
end-on-end	Broadcloth, chambray, madras, or other fabric having alternating warp yarn, usually one in color and one in white.
engine-turn	Involves the use of a machine to engrave geometric designs into metal.
english moc construction	Refers to the same piece of leather at the top of shoe is wrapped completely around & a sole is put on.
english spread collar	A plain tennis collar which has spread points. The spread, usually 4 inches or more, shortens the point.
enzyme washed	Use of a catalytic substance secreted by living organisms which brings about a chemical change in a fabric.
epaulets	A strap stitched to or buttoned on the shoulder of a garment.
espadrille	Shoe with a flexible sole made of rope or rubber and a fabric upper. Originally worn as a bathing shoe.
extended waist	A waistband with an extended inner edge, usually with a button or hook to fasten on the inside. This provides for a smoother look.
fair isle	Sweater of an allover colorful design, originally hand-knitted on Fair Isle, off the coast of Scotland.
feather edge	On a belt, it refers to edges that are not topstitched.
Feather Tweed	Latest Brooks Brothers innovation from Scotland, this exceptional wool fabric was created to be remarkably lightweight while retaining all the distinctive attributes of traditional tweed, elegantly textured and richly colored.
fine wale	In a woven fabric, this refers to a rib or raised cord, as in corduroy.
fit-and-flare	A silhouette that is close-fitting at the top, and spreads outward, or flares, at the bottom.
Fitzgerald fit	Distinguished by narrow lapels, higher armholes, a 2-button jacket and trimmer-fitting plain-front trousers.
flannel	A loosely woven fabric with a napped surface to conceal the weave, made mainly of wool in men's apparel.
flap pockets	A pocket with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope.
flap-over inset pockets	Pockets made by slitting the garment, binding the cut edges, and lining, with an envelope-like flap at the opening.
flap-over patch pockets	A flat pocket applied to the outside of a garment, with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope.
fleece	Woolen material with a napped fuzzy surface, used mainly in outerwear.
forward pleats	Pleats that point toward the center of the garment.
forward point collar	Traditional shirt collar-not buttoned down (also known as a Tennis Collar).
french cuff	Have square or round edges that turn back and are worn with cuff-links.
french fly	This closure has a front fly with an inside button tab; this keeps the fly laying smooth. It also has a hook & eye closure and extended outer tab with buttons.
french front placket	Construction detail in which the shirt front is simply folded under, eliminating the raised placket that runs down the front of the shirt.
french Wire	Fine coil of silver or gold filled wire used to conceal beading wire next to crimps and clasps. Gives jewelry an elegant, professionally finished look while also protecting and strengthening the ends of the beadwork.
gabardine	A distinctive diagonal warp twill, tightly woven fabric.
garment dyed	Fabric dyed after the garment is sewn
garment washed	Process where the garment is washed after construction, rather than prior to construction.
georgette	Highly creped sheer silk fabric, used for dresses and blouses.
gingham	Fabric with dyed yarns introduced at given intervals, both vertically and horizontally, to achieve block or check effects.
glass pearls	Pearls made of glass.
glen plaid	Scottish tartan of mostly gray, blue, brown, or greenish casts with multiple colors, in which a group of stripes run vertically and horizontally to form a boxlike pattern.
Global Recovery System	Hartmann’s Global Recovery System (GRS) equips each case with a serial number. Register to gain access to a 24/7 online recovery service to report or track your lost case. 888-4-HARTMANN (domestic), 615-453-3349 (international), hartmann.com/grs.
gloss finish	A finish giving off a surface luster or brightness.
goat suede	Brushed heavy durable cotton that produces a suede like effect. So called because it is said to resemble the fur of a mole, moleskin has become a popular sportswear fabric used in everything from pants to sport coats to outerwear.
gold filled	A layer of gold covering a base metal by fusing.
gold inlay	Refers to when a design is cut right into a stone.
gold plated	Layers of gold over a base metal deposited on all surfaces by electroplating. The more layers deposited, the more durable the finish.
goldtone buckle	Gold color buckle
Goodyear (welt construction)	A process used only in the best shoes, this system allows to the air interchange within the footwear offering him a matchless durability. The top section (or welt) is chain stitched to the upper and insole rib at the point where it curves under the last.
gore skirt	A full skirt that gets it's fullness from the gores. A gore is a tapered or triangular piece of fabric that is fuller at the bottom than at the top.
grand fancy repp	A richly textured diagonal twill weave, with the weave resembling a herringbone pattern.
graph check	A fabric pattern resembling graph paper.
graphic stripes	A fabric pattern with ivory ground & Bold contrast.
grommets	A small metal or plastic ring used to reinforce a hole, or eyelet, through which a fastener is passed. Used in everything from sneakers to totes to pullovers, grommets have come to signify utilitarian style.
grosgrain	A heavy, rather prominent ribbed fabric--used mostly in ribbon.
guard stripe	A diagonal fabric pattern of even width stripes.
gussets	A pocket with a piece of material inserted at the side seam to allow extra fullness.
hairline stripe	Very narrow stripes, made by weaving single threads in color to contrast with the background color.
hand-linked	A method of finishing seams that gives garments a smooth, flat appearance.
Harris Tweed	A hand-woven tweed fabric made from pure virgin wool in Harris and the Outer Hebrides Islands off the coast of Scotland. The Harris Tweed maintains to bear the signature orb on its selvage that it has had since its expansion by Lady Dunmore in the 1840s.
Hartmann care instructions	For fabric, clean with mild soap and water using a nylon bristle brush. Avoid saturating the fabric. For best results, clean the entire area and allow to dry, then spray with Scotchgard®. For leather, use a soft cloth and warm water. Rub gently.
herringbone	A broken-twill weave giving a zigzag effect produced by alternating the direction of the twill.
high twist wool	More durable than regular wool, it is resistant to dirt and holds both creases and it's shape.
horn buttons	Buttons made from the actual horns of an animal.
houndstooth	Check with jagged edges resembling a dog's tooth.
hudson fit	Plain-front, relaxed cut through hip and thigh, relaxed leg opening.
humidor	A case for storing cigars in which the air is kept at the proper humidity.
intarsia	Italian term for an inlaid mosaic of wood or other materials. In knitting, the term is applied to a similar design with the pattern in solid colors on both sides of the fabric.
interlock	Term applied to a closely knit fabric produced on a machine with alternating long and short needles.
iridescent	Play or reflection of multiple colors attained by using different colors in the warp and filling of a fabric.
Irish linen	Thin linen woven of Irish flax, used for shirts, trousers, and sportcoats.
Italian linen	Thin linen woven of Italian flax, used for shirts, trousers, and sportcoats.
jacquard	A fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern.
jaspe	Term applied to a fabric with an arrangement of fine stripes formed by light, medium, and dark shades of a given color. It gives the appearance of a heather-twisted yarn.
jersey	Knitted fabric with a slight rib on one side, used for sportshirts, sportswear, and underwear.
jewel neck	A basic, round neckline.
jockey stripe	A fabric pattern with alternating colors of even-width thin stripes.
johnny collar polo	A sleeveless collar polo.
jumper	A sleeveless dress for wearing over a blouse, etc.
keeper	A leather or metal device for holding the end of a belt in place.
kiltie loafers	A loafer with a tongue of fringed leather that is draped over the instep.
kimono	Wrap style of a robe with full-cut sleeves and a sash, of Japanese origin.
knapsack	A leather, canvas, or other fabric bag for carrying items on the back.
lambswool	The first fleece sheared from a lamb about 6-8 months old. It is a very fine quality, softly textured, but not as strong as fully developed wool of the same sheep.
last	A form made of wood or metal that is shaped like a foot, over which a shoe is designed and manufactured.
lawyer's bag	A briefcase with a flap closure, top handle, and inside gusseted pockets.
linen	Fabric made of fibers removed from the stem of the flax plant; it was probably the first textile fabric to be used.
lisle	A cotton fabric that has been processed to give it a smooth finish. The process burns off lint and threads as well as fuzz and fiber ends, leaving
Loro Piana	Italian finest fabric producer.
low vamp	The upper covering of shoe if the forepart is low.
lug soles	Soles with ridges on the bottom for increased traction.
lycra spandex	Brand name of a spandex fiber manufactured by Du Pont. Lycra has elasticity and retains its shape.
Madison fit	The Brooks Brothers original, favored for its relaxed fit, natural shoulders, and easy fitting trousers.
Madison fit	The Brooks Brothers classic relaxed fit.
Madison fit	The Brooks Brothers original, favored for its relaxed fit and natural shoulders.
madras	A cloth created by overlapping weaves of alternating colors. The weave is looser but similar to broadcloth. It is named for Madras, India, an early source of textiles.
matte finish	A non-glossy, dull finish.
medallion cap toe	Design perforated in the leather of the shoe tip.
melange stripe	A French term for mixture effects in fabrics.
mercerized	Smooth, lustrous fabric resulting from the treatment of cotton yarn or fabric with a solution of caustic soda; this strengthens yarns, adds to absorptive qualities, and improves dye penetration.
mercury	A heavy silver-white metallic element.