 |
| TERM |
DESCRIPTION |
|
a-line shape |
A body style having a close-fitting top and a flared bottom. |
|
ainsley |
or ainsley spread collar. A plain tennis collar which has spread points. The spread shortens the points. This collar also has slots for inserting collar stays. |
|
airsoft finish |
As the name implies, a finish giving a fabric a softer hand. |
|
alligator |
Exotic grains, long-wearing leather. Most are imported and are very expensive. |
|
alpaca |
Fiber from an animal resembling a llama, it can be used in pile fabrics for insulated coats. |
|
American camel hair |
Supreme soft fabric containing camel hair or a similar fiber. cloth made of camel hair or a mixture of camel hair and wool usually light tan and of soft silky texture. |
|
ancient madder |
Process characterized by deep, muted tones and hand that resembles the peachy finish and feel of fine suede. The Ancient Madder dying process continues to produce silk of singular beauty. |
|
aniline calfskin |
Calfskin leather that has been dyed with aniline, an oily liquid. This process gives the leather a soft feel. |
|
antique brass |
Brass that has been darkened by the use of chemicals. |
|
antique wash |
Process that gives the fabric a worn, slightly washed out look. |
|
argyle |
Design often used for knitwear and hosiery: two or three colors in a diamond shaped design. |
|
attaché |
A flap front briefcase where the flap closes halfway down the front, with a top handle. |
|
badger bristles |
Short, stiff coarse hairs from the badger, used in our shaving brush. |
|
balmoral |
A closed-throat shoe with a laced front. |
|
band |
The part that encircles the wrist. |
|
band collar |
A collar having just the neckband, but no collar attached to it. |
|
band end piece |
The part of the band that connects to the lugs; the band width is measured by the end piece. |
|
bar stripe |
A straight stripe or band that is much longer that it is wide. |
|
barrel cuffs |
Single lined cuffs with a regular button and buttonhole closing. |
|
baseball neckline |
A collar similar to that of the uniform worn by a baseball player. |
|
basketweave |
Variation of a plain weave fabric in which two or more yarns are worked in the warp and weft, used mostly in shirting. |
|
batik print |
Indonesian way of dyeing fabric in which waxed areas resist the dye and unwaxed areas are penetrated by it. |
|
beechwood |
A fabric resembling the color of the beech tree (which has a smooth, gray bark). |
|
belgium linen |
Linen fabric made in Belgium |
|
bemberg lining |
Bemberg is a brand name of rayon fabric, of the finest quality. It is used for our suit and sportcoat linings, and is the softest, finest lining available |
|
bengal stripe |
Colorfully striped fabric shipped to world markets from Bengal, India; used for sportshirts, pajamas, and more. |
|
besom pockets |
Pocket with a stitched fold on both the upper and lower sides. |
|
bezel |
The rim of the case. |
|
billfold |
Another name for a type of a man's wallet. |
|
birdseye |
Fabric characterized by a small geometric pattern with a center dot resembling a bird's eye. |
|
blackwatch |
A plaid pattern in hunter/royal/black. |
|
blake construction |
Fancy name for the way upper leather is sewn to the sole of the shoe. It denotes a reinforced, well constructed shoe - similar to Goodyear construction. |
|
blazer stripe |
A fabric pattern with wide-spaced thin stripes. |
|
bluchers |
Shoes having the tongue and vamp cut in one piece and the quarters lapped over the vamp and laced together for closing. |
|
bluff edge |
When the edges of a garment are not topstitched. |
|
boarskin |
Leather of boar with a remarkably superior quality. |
|
boston bag |
An overnight bag. |
|
boucle |
A fabric woven from curled or twisted yarn so as to produce small loops on the surface, giving it a kinky appearance. |
|
box pleat |
A two-sided fold in the garment resembling a panel, with the edges facing opposite directions. |
|
braces |
Suspenders. |
|
braided |
Woven or knitted material used for trimming or binding. |
|
brass |
An alloy consisting essentially of copper and zinc in variable proportions. |
|
breton stripe |
A fabric pattern with very widely-spaced thin stripes. |
|
bridle leather |
Type of leather that is used in traditional Saddlery ( saddles, whips etc.) |
|
broadcloth |
Plain, closely woven fabric, lighter than poplin, finely textured. |
|
brooksease |
Our exclusive high performance, natural double-stretch wool. It provides exceptional comfort, ease of movement, and resists wrinkling. The midweight, all-wool fabric is soft and supple to the touch, and perfect for year-round wear. |
|
BrooksFlannel |
A Brooks Brothers trade mark, this revolutionary flannel is born from a combination of 80% cotton and 20% wool for a remarkably soft hand. |
|
BrooksStorm |
A BrooksStorm garment is made from the finest, specialty treated natural fibers for all-weather protection. It is windproof, water-resistant, lightweight and comfortable with elegant styling, even in the most inclement conditions. |
|
brushed brass |
One type of textured brass having a matte finish produced by running a wire brush across the surface. |
|
buffalo check |
Design of big squares or blocks, in fairly heavy fabrics. It is used for shirts and outerwear. |
|
burnished |
To polish metal with a coarse or smooth cloth. |
|
burnt horn button |
Large horn button with large wholes. The back is smooth and flat. Each button is unique as they are hand carved |
|
butterfly bowtie |
Bow tie with flared ends, designed for a small knot. |
|
button down collar |
A collar held down at the points by buttons originated in the nineteenth century by English polo players and introduced to America by Brooks Brothers. |
|
cable |
A knitted stitch used that resembles a twisted cable. It gives the garment a textured appearance, and is used in sweaters. |
|
caduceus |
An insignia bearing a staff with 2 entwined snakes and 2 wings at the top, symbolizing a physician. |
|
calfskin |
Leather from a young calf, it is smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, and durable. It does not scuff easily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well. |
|
camel hair |
Fiber from a camel, ranging in color from natural to brown. It can be used alone or blended with wool. It comes from the underside of the camel, and is lustrous and very soft. |
|
candy stripe |
Equal-width stripes of a color and white on fabrics used for shirts and sportswear. |
|
canvas |
Strong, closely-woven plain weave fabric, usually made from cotton, linen or hemp. Originally used to make sails. |
|
cap sleeve |
A very short sleeve that hangs over the edge of the shoulder without extending along the underside of the arm. |
|
cap toe |
A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe; used on oxford-type shoes. |
|
capri pants |
Close-fitting women's pants that end above the ankle. |
|
cardigan |
Refers to any sweater or jacket that buttons down the front. It can have a round or v-neck. |
|
cashmere |
Wool from the undercoat of the long-haired Kasmir goat, which is woven or knitted into soft fabrics that are luxurious to the touch. It is a fine, close weave. |
|
cavalry twill |
A sturdy fabric with a steep, pronounced double twill effect. Originally a staple army fabric, with a clear, hard finish, it is now used in jackets, suits, coats and riding pants. |
|
cedar |
The wood of a tree of the pine family noted for its fragrance and durability. |
|
center vent |
A split in the center lower part of a garment (jacket or skirt). |
|
chambray |
Woven cotton, polyester, or rayon fabric with a colored warp and white filling; used for shirts and other apparel. |
|
charmeuse |
A lightweight silk, cotton, or manmade fiber dress fabric which is soft and drapes well. It is smooth, has a semi-lustrous satin face and a dull back. |
|
chemise |
A woman's straight, loose dress. |
|
chesterfield |
Plain-back, slightly shaped overcoat, in either a single-breasted fly front or a double-breasted style. Named for the sixth Earl of Chesterfield and considered by many to be the most formal and classic town coat a gentleman can wear. |
|
chiffon |
A transparent sheer fabric in a plain weave. Extremely light in weight but very strong, it usually has a soft finish. |
|
chinos |
All cotton twill fabric used for trousers and sportswear. |
|
chronograph |
A timepiece with both timekeeping and stopwatch functions. |
|
chukka boot |
Boot that extends above the ankle and fastens with a lace through two eyelets. It has a rubber or leather sole. |
|
cigar clipper |
An instrument for clipping or snipping off the end of a cigar. |
|
cigar cutter |
An instrument used for cutting a cigar, shaped like scissors. |
|
clark fit |
Plain-front, straight cut through hip and thigh, straight leg opening. |
|
coatdress |
A dress styled like a coat, usually with a front buttoning from the neckline to the hemline. |
|
collar stays |
Thin brass or plastic strips that run down the inside of the collar to the points to give it a flat appearance; can be permanent or removable. |
|
Colombo cashmere |
Italian best cashmere quality producer. |
|
combed cotton |
Combing is a process that removes all the short fibers, making it stronger and finer. It is a higher-quality fabric. |
|
Coolmax® |
Coolmax® is a remarkable fiber has the ability to wick moisture away from the skin and dry quickly. Soft, lightweight and very breathable. |
|
cord stitching |
On a man's moccasin, IT refers to the leather lace overcast stitching on the upper part of the shoe. |
|
cordovan |
Leather from the hindquarters of the horse. It is non-porous, durable, resistant to scuffing, very expensive, and long-wearing. |
|
corduroy |
A durable cotton pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales--the less ribs per inch, the wider the wale. |
|
corozo (buttons) |
Button made from the famous South American tagua nut. |
|
cortina |
Leather that has been processed with a vegetable dye. |
|
cotton |
Made by weaving two thin vertical yarns with a single thicker horizontal yarn. The yarns are more slender, making the fabric feel thinner, lighter and lustrous. Pima can also be knitted into sweaters, characterized by their luster and fine handfeel. |
|
cotton flake |
Flake yarns are variations of the slub yarns. The yarn varies in thickness and softness, giving it a textured appearance. |
|
cowhide |
Leather made from the hides of cows. |
|
crepe |
A light crinkled fabric woven of any various fibers. |
|
crew neck |
A high, round collarless neckline with a rib finishing. Popularized by crew racers, this neckline is now popular in T-shirts and sweaters. |
|
cross-stitched (buttons) |
A stitch made up of two diagonal stitches crossing each other. |
|
crow's foot pattern |
A triangular-shaped pattern resembling the foot of a crow. |
|
crown |
The outer knob used to set the watch. |
|
cummerbund |
Waistband of solid or patterned silk or other fabric, made with or without pleats, for wear with a dinner jacket. |
|
cut through pockets |
Pockets that allow easy access through both the shell and lining of a coat to your clothing pockets. |
|
darts |
A fold of fabric stitched to a point at one or both ends, giving shape to a garment. |
|
date wheel |
Displays the day of the month. |
|
deerskin |
Skin of a female deer or antelope, usually in white or natural shades, but sometimes in colors. |
|
dinner jacket |
Evening jacket for semi-formal or formal wear. It may be single or double-breasted, with lustrous facing on peaked lapels or shawl collar. |
|
dobby |
Fabric with small figures woven in, such as dots, geometric designs, floral patterns, etc. They are found in shirt and tie fabrics. |
|
doeskin |
A closely woven woolen worsted fabric with a slightly napped surface, used for sportswear and slacks. |
|
donegal |
A knit or tweed with coarse multicolored yarns with nubs that are combined with single-colored yarns to produce a mottled, pebbly result. |
|
dopp kit |
A men's travel size shaving/toiletry kit, with a zipper closure, side zip compartment, and inside pocket. |
|
double face cloth |
Overcoat material composed of two fabrics joined together with a binder yarn. Either side can be used as the face. |
|
double-bar horizontal repp |
A stripe fabric pattern of two closely-spaced thin stripes, with one wide stripe in between. |
|
double-breasted |
Term applied to a jacket or coat in which the fabric overlaps by a few inches in the front. There are 2 vertical rows of buttons and a single row of buttonholes with a single button on the underside to secure the fabric on the inside. |
|
double-faced wool |
Wool fabrics that are finished on both sides to confer a supreme quality to the textile. |
|
Dow XLA™ |
A revolutionary, olefin-based elastic fiber that, when blended with traditional fibers like cotton or wool, offers a soft stretch, unprecedented durability, ease of care, and the ability to keep color and shape, wash after wash. |
|
duffel coat |
A heavy, usually woolen medium length coat with toggle fasteners and a hood. |
|
Egyptian cotton |
Usually a better-quality cotton fiber produced in Egypt that is stronger and more lustrous than other grades of cotton. |
|
elliot fit |
Pleat-front, relaxed cut through hip and thigh, relaxed leg opening. |
|
ELS |
Extra-Long Staple cotton originated in the Southwest United States and is known for its superior fiber properties, luster and silkiness. |
|
embossed |
Leather treated with heat and pressure in a hydraulic press to give it a grained look. |
|
enamel |
A usually opaque substance applied by fusion to the surface of metal, glass, or pottery. |
|
end-on-end |
Broadcloth, chambray, madras, or other fabric having alternating warp yarn, usually one in color and one in white. |
|
engine-turn |
Involves the use of a machine to engrave geometric designs into metal. |
|
english moc construction |
Refers to the same piece of leather at the top of shoe is wrapped completely around & a sole is put on. |
|
english spread collar |
A plain tennis collar which has spread points. The spread, usually 4 inches or more, shortens the point. |
|
enzyme washed |
Use of a catalytic substance secreted by living organisms which brings about a chemical change in a fabric. |
|
epaulets |
A strap stitched to or buttoned on the shoulder of a garment. |
|
espadrille |
Shoe with a flexible sole made of rope or rubber and a fabric upper. Originally worn as a bathing shoe. |
|
extended waist |
A waistband with an extended inner edge, usually with a button or hook to fasten on the inside. This provides for a smoother look. |
|
fair isle |
Sweater of an allover colorful design, originally hand-knitted on Fair Isle, off the coast of Scotland. |
|
feather edge |
On a belt, it refers to edges that are not topstitched. |
|
Feather Tweed |
Latest Brooks Brothers innovation from Scotland, this exceptional wool fabric was created to be remarkably lightweight while retaining all the distinctive attributes of traditional tweed, elegantly textured and richly colored. |
|
fine wale |
In a woven fabric, this refers to a rib or raised cord, as in corduroy. |
|
fit-and-flare |
A silhouette that is close-fitting at the top, and spreads outward, or flares, at the bottom. |
|
flannel |
A loosely woven fabric with a napped surface to conceal the weave, made mainly of wool in men's apparel. |
|
flap pockets |
A pocket with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope. |
|
flap-over inset pockets |
Pockets made by slitting the garment, binding the cut edges, and lining, with an envelope-like flap at the opening. |
|
flap-over patch pockets |
A flat pocket applied to the outside of a garment, with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope. |
|
fleece |
Woolen material with a napped fuzzy surface, used mainly in outerwear. |
|
forward pleats |
Pleats that point toward the center of the garment. |
|
forward point collar |
Traditional shirt collar-not buttoned down (also known as a Tennis Collar). |
|
french cuff |
Have square or round edges that turn back and are worn with cuff-links. |
|
French Faced |
When a suit or sport coat has the shell fabric covering the interior front panels of the coat. Only found in 3/8 lined coats. |
|
french fly |
This closure has a front fly with an inside button tab; this keeps the fly laying smooth. It also has a hook & eye closure and extended outer tab with buttons. |
|
french front placket |
Construction detail in which the shirt front is simply folded under, eliminating the raised placket that runs down the front of the shirt. |
|
french Wire |
Fine coil of silver or gold filled wire used to conceal beading wire next to crimps and clasps. Gives jewelry an elegant, professionally finished look while also protecting and strengthening the ends of the beadwork. |
|
gabardine |
A distinctive diagonal warp twill, tightly woven fabric. |
|
garment dyed |
Fabric dyed after the garment is sewn |
|
garment washed |
Process where the garment is washed after construction, rather than prior to construction. |
|
georgette |
Highly creped sheer silk fabric, used for dresses and blouses. |
|
gingham |
Fabric with dyed yarns introduced at given intervals, both vertically and horizontally, to achieve block or check effects. |
|
glass pearls |
Pearls made of glass. |
|
glen plaid |
Scottish tartan of mostly gray, blue, brown, or greenish casts with multiple colors, in which a group of stripes run vertically and horizontally to form a boxlike pattern. |
|
Global Recovery System |
Hartmann’s Global Recovery System (GRS) equips each case with a serial number. Register to gain access to a 24/7 online recovery service to report or track your lost case. 888-4-HARTMANN (domestic), 615-453-3349 (international), hartmann.com/grs. |
|
gloss finish |
A finish giving off a surface luster or brightness. |
|
goat suede |
Brushed heavy durable cotton that produces a suede like effect. So called because it is said to resemble the fur of a mole, moleskin has become a popular sportswear fabric used in everything from pants to sport coats to outerwear. |
|
gold filled |
A layer of gold covering a base metal by fusing. |
|
gold inlay |
Refers to when a design is cut right into a stone. |
|
gold plated |
Layers of gold over a base metal deposited on all surfaces by electroplating. The more layers deposited, the more durable the finish. |
|
goldtone buckle |
Gold color buckle |
|
Goodyear (welt construction) |
A process used only in the best shoes, this system allows to the air interchange within the footwear offering him a matchless durability. The top section (or welt) is chain stitched to the upper and insole rib at the point where it curves under the last. |
|
gore skirt |
A full skirt that gets it's fullness from the gores. A gore is a tapered or triangular piece of fabric that is fuller at the bottom than at the top. |
|
grand fancy repp |
A richly textured diagonal twill weave, with the weave resembling a herringbone pattern. |
|
graph check |
A fabric pattern resembling graph paper. |
|
graphic stripes |
A fabric pattern with ivory ground & Bold contrast. |
|
grommets |
A small metal or plastic ring used to reinforce a hole, or eyelet, through which a fastener is passed. Used in everything from sneakers to totes to pullovers, grommets have come to signify utilitarian style. |
|
grosgrain |
A heavy, rather prominent ribbed fabric--used mostly in ribbon. |
|
guard stripe |
A diagonal fabric pattern of even width stripes. |
|
gussets |
A pocket with a piece of material inserted at the side seam to allow extra fullness. |
|
hacking pocket |
A hip-level flap pocket that is slanted or cut on an angle. Traditionally found on a Hacking or riding jacket, or suggestive of tailored clothing from the British sartorial tradition. |
|
hairline stripe |
Very narrow stripes, made by weaving single threads in color to contrast with the background color. |
|
hand-linked |
A method of finishing seams that gives garments a smooth, flat appearance. |
|
Harris Tweed |
A hand-woven tweed fabric made from pure virgin wool in Harris and the Outer Hebrides Islands off the coast of Scotland. The Harris Tweed maintains to bear the signature orb on its selvage that it has had since its expansion by Lady Dunmore in the 1840s. |
|
Hartmann care instructions |
For fabric, clean with mild soap and water using a nylon bristle brush. Avoid saturating the fabric. For best results, clean the entire area and allow to dry, then spray with Scotchgard®. For leather, use a soft cloth and warm water. Rub gently. |
|
herringbone |
A broken-twill weave giving a zigzag effect produced by alternating the direction of the twill. |
|
high twist wool |
More durable than regular wool, it is resistant to dirt and holds both creases and it's shape. |
|
horn buttons |
Buttons made from the actual horns of an animal. |
|
houndstooth |
Check with jagged edges resembling a dog's tooth. |
|
hudson fit |
Plain-front, relaxed cut through hip and thigh, relaxed leg opening. |
|
humidor |
A case for storing cigars in which the air is kept at the proper humidity. |
|
intarsia |
Italian term for an inlaid mosaic of wood or other materials. In knitting, the term is applied to a similar design with the pattern in solid colors on both sides of the fabric. |
|
interlock |
Term applied to a closely knit fabric produced on a machine with alternating long and short needles. |
|
iridescent |
Play or reflection of multiple colors attained by using different colors in the warp and filling of a fabric. |
|
Irish linen |
Thin linen woven of Irish flax, used for shirts, trousers, and sportcoats. |
|
Italian linen |
Thin linen woven of Italian flax, used for shirts, trousers, and sportcoats. |
|
jacquard |
A fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern. |
|
jaspe |
Term applied to a fabric with an arrangement of fine stripes formed by light, medium, and dark shades of a given color. It gives the appearance of a heather-twisted yarn. |
|
jersey |
Knitted fabric with a slight rib on one side, used for sportshirts, sportswear, and underwear. |
|
jewel neck |
A basic, round neckline. |
|
jockey stripe |
A fabric pattern with alternating colors of even-width thin stripes. |
|
johnny collar polo |
A sleeveless collar polo. |
|
jumper |
A sleeveless dress for wearing over a blouse, etc. |
|
keeper |
A leather or metal device for holding the end of a belt in place. |
|
kiltie loafers |
A loafer with a tongue of fringed leather that is draped over the instep. |
|
kimono |
Wrap style of a robe with full-cut sleeves and a sash, of Japanese origin. |
|
knapsack |
A leather, canvas, or other fabric bag for carrying items on the back. |
|
lambswool |
The first fleece sheared from a lamb about 6-8 months old. It is a very fine quality, softly textured, but not as strong as fully developed wool of the same sheep. |
|
last |
A form made of wood or metal that is shaped like a foot, over which a shoe is designed and manufactured. |
|
lawyer's bag |
A briefcase with a flap closure, top handle, and inside gusseted pockets. |
|
linen |
Fabric made of fibers removed from the stem of the flax plant; it was probably the first textile fabric to be used. |
|
lisle |
A cotton fabric that has been processed to give it a smooth finish. The process burns off lint and threads as well as fuzz and fiber ends, leaving |
|
Loro Piana |
Italian finest fabric producer. |
|
low vamp |
The upper covering of shoe if the forepart is low. |
|
lug soles |
Soles with ridges on the bottom for increased traction. |
|
lycra spandex |
Brand name of a spandex fiber manufactured by Du Pont. Lycra has elasticity and retains its shape. |
|
madras |
A cloth created by overlapping weaves of alternating colors. The weave is looser but similar to broadcloth. It is named for Madras, India, an early source of textiles. |
|
matte finish |
A non-glossy, dull finish. |
|
medallion cap toe |
Design perforated in the leather of the shoe tip. |
|
melange stripe |
A French term for mixture effects in fabrics. |
|
mercerized |
Smooth, lustrous fabric resulting from the treatment of cotton yarn or fabric with a solution of caustic soda; this strengthens yarns, adds to absorptive qualities, and improves dye penetration. |
|
mercury |
A heavy silver-white metallic element. |
|
merino wool |
From the Merino sheep, it is a strong, fine fiber with superior warmth, and is considered the best wool. |
|
metallic |
A fiber or yarn made of or coated with metal, giving it an iridescent look. |
|
micro sidewheeler |
Small paddle wheel. |
|
microfiber |
The fabric is exceptionally strong and has a silky feel to it. It is more porous, and breathes better than other polyesters. Microfiber is naturally water repellent, and is used in rainwear. |
|
milano fit |
Plain-front, European cut with tab closure, slimmest fit with lower rise. |
|
mitered vents |
Slits in the lower part of a garment, for ease of movement. |
|
moccasins |
A soft leather heelless shoe with the sole brought up the sides of the foot and over the toes where it is joined with a puckered seam to a U-shape. |
|
mock-croc |
Embossed item that resembles crocodile skin. |
|
mockneck |
A loose standup collar on a sweater or other top. |
|
mogador |
Ribbed silk used in making neckties. |
|
moleskin |
Brushed heavy durable cotton that produces a suede like effect. So called because it is said to resemble the fur of a mole, moleskin has become a popular sportswear fabric used in everything from pants to sport coats to outerwear. |
|
mother-of-pearl |
The hard, smooth, iridescent inner lining of the shell oysters, mussels, and other mollusks. |
|
mouton |
Sheepskin with a short or medium length pile, dyed in deep tones. |
|
mule slipper |
A slipper without quarter or heel strap, also known as a scuff. |
|
nappa leather |
A leather made by tanning sheepskins and lambskins with a soap-and-oil mixture; producing a soft pliable leather. |
|
natte |
An under and over weave that gives a unique texture. |
|
nickel |
A silver-white hard metal capable of a high polish and resistant to corrosion. |
|
nightshirt |
Pullover sleeping garment of woven cotton extending to above ankle length. |
|
norfolk back |
A man's sports jacket with one or two box pleats down back and a self belt that laces under or over the pleats at the waistline. |
|
notch lapel |
Type of lapel on which the top line slants down in line with the collar seam. |
|
nubuck |
Cattleskin given a suede finish to appear as buckskin. |
|
nylon taffeta |
Plain weave fabric that is finished smooth on both sides and has a sheen. |
|
oak leather |
Water repellant dry milled leather that is vegetable tanned. |
|
off-seam pockets |
Pocket in which the opening does not lie along the seam. |
|
oil cloth |
A cloth that has been treated with oil or a synthetic resin to make it waterproof. |
|
oil-tanned |
A preserving process for leather in which oil is rubbed into the skin. This process is known as tanning. |
|
ombre stripe |
Term applied to a fabric woven or dyed in a graduation of shades. |
|
on-seam pockets |
Pocket in which the opening lies along the seam. |
|
onyx |
A variety of quartz that is very porous and layered with different shades of black and white. All onyx is artificially colored to enhance coloration and structure of the stone. |
|
open sleeve |
Refers to a short sleeve shirt that has no rib trim at the end of the sleeve. |
|
opera pocket |
Hidden pocket on the inside of a cummerbund for storage of opera tickets, etc. |
|
opera slipper |
A slipper that is low cut on the sides, having no quarter strap, but having a section at the back of the foot. |
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oxford cloth |
A plain weave fabric of medium or heavy weight. The majority of oxfords are of combed yarns, and are given a silk-like luster finish. It has a characteristic pebbly basketweave construction. |
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oxfords |
A shoe cut below the ankle that is held on the foot by means of laces in the center of the instep. |
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paisley |
A woven or printed pattern resembling the patterns of woolen shawls. |
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pant weight |
Durable heavier weight. |
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pastel |
A soft delicate hue. |
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patent leather |
A smooth, shiny finish leather. A plastic urethane coating is put on the leather to give it the shine. |
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pea coat |
It is a heavy, double-breasted dark blue woolen jacket, originally worn by sailors. |
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peak lapels |
A type of lapel on which the top line slants up from the horizontal, coming to a point and leaving only a narrow space between the collar and lapel. |
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pebble-grain |
A regular texture produced on the surface of leather by the embossing process. |
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penny loafer |
Mocassin-style shoe with a slotted strap stitched to the vamp. |
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peplum |
A short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, dress or skirt. |
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peter pan collar |
A small flat close-fitting collar with rounded ends that meet in the front. |
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pick-stitch |
A stitch with spaces in between each stitch. |
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piece dyed |
Term applied to material that is dyed after it has been woven. |
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pigskin |
Leather made from the skin of a pig. Stronger than cowhide with a distinctive grain: groups of three tiny holes from which the fibers have been removed. |
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pincord |
A fabric with very narrow ridges or ribs in it. |
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pinpoint |
A very tightly woven fabric with a very high thread count per inch, making the fabric very soft, like a silk or broadcloth. |
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pinstripe |
Fine stripes resulting from the use of white, gray, or other yarns in series in the warp of a worsted fabric. |
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piping |
Narrow fold, braid, or cord used to decorate or finish the edges or pockets of a garment. |
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piqué |
A dobby weave fabric with a diamond design. |
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placket |
It is a finished opening in a garment section. On the front of a shirt, it is used for placement of buttonholes. |
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plain collar |
A woman's shirt collar, equivalent to a men's forward point collar (not buttoned down). |
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pocket jotter |
A small leather accessory similar to a pocket secretary, but with corner slots for a notepad, credit card slots, and an inside pocket. |
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pocket secretary |
A small leather accessory similar to a pocket jotter, but with 4 inside pockets and 6 credit card slots (no note pad). |
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polished brass |
Brass with a high shine to it. |
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polo coat |
A single- or double-breasted outercoat of heavy or light camelhair with set-in or raglan sleeves, patch pockets with flaps, and a half-belt or all-around belt. |
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polo shirt |
A close-fitting pullover with a button placket and a knit collar. |
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polyamide |
Name given to natural and synthetic protein fibers and nylon. |
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poplin |
Tightly woven, durable cotton made with a plain weave and a more pronounced rib than broadcloth. |
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porcelain |
A hard, fine-grained, translucent white ceramic ware that is fired at high temperatures. |
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portfolio |
A hinged cover or flexible case for carrying loose papers, pictures, or pamphlets. |
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princess seams |
Close-fitting and usually with gores or panels from the neck to the bottom of the garment. |
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pu |
Polyurethane coating. Makes fabric water repellent. |
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quarter top pocket |
Also known as slash pockets, the opening edge forms a diagonal from the waistband to the side seam. |
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Quartz movement |
The mechanics of a watch which ensure accurate timekeeping and eliminate the need for mechanical winding. |
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raglan sleeve |
A sleeve with a seam extending at an angle from the armhole to the collar. |
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reactive dye |
This type of dye provides bright colors on cottons and can dye acrylics, nylon, silk, and wool. It holds up well to light exposure and washing. |
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Regent fit |
A contemporary take on the classic Brooks Brothers suit with slimmer lines, a narrower lapel and trimmer trousers. |
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regimental stripes |
Colors identified in England with various regiments and used in ties worn by their officers in civilian dress. Similar colors and arrangements are used in neckwear in England and the U.S. |
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relaxed fit shirt |
A dress shirt fit designed with deeper armholes, a deep back yoke, and wider shoulders with dual side pleats that provide greater freedom of movement, assuring you of extraordinary comfort. |
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repp |
Closely woven ribbed fabric with a transverse cord effect; used for neckwear, accessories, and sportswear. |
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reverse pleats |
Pleats that point away from the center of the garment. |
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reverse stripe |
A pattern in which the stripes are white, with a colored background. |
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ripstop |
Fabric that is made by weaving nylon threads throughout a base material in interlocking pattern that resists tearing and ripping. It is usually water resistant. |
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ruana |
Born as a cape or poncho worn in Peru and Colombia, in the ordinary clothing language represents a woolen covering resembling a cloak |
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rugby stripe |
Alternating stripes of 2 or more colors, wide but of equal width. |
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sack jacket |
Undarted. Straighter cut with a narrower shoulder stance, set-in besom flap pockets. Easier fit. Classically worn with only the center button closed. |
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saddle bag |
A business case with a full flap front with a buckle (resembling a horse saddle). |
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saddle shoulders |
A sweater or other knitted garment in which the sleeves are attached with seams extending from the armholes to the collar in front and back. |
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sandal |
Footwear consisting of a sole with a strap upper in front and a buckled strap extending from the back over the instep. |
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sandwashed |
A process using sand to wash either fabric or finished garment, giving it a slightly worn or faded appearance and making it very soft. |
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satchel |
A small bag for carrying clothes, books, etc. |
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sateen |
A smooth, durable lustrous fabric, usually made of cotton in a satin weave. |
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Saxxon |
A trademarked rare, fine wool of superior quality from the Saxon merino sheep. Much lighter than cashmere, it’s noted for its extreme softness and resistance to wrinkles. |
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Saxxon™ Wool |
A trademarked rare, fine wool of superior quality from the Saxon merino sheep. Much lighter than cashmere, it’s noted for its extreme softness and resistance to wrinkles. |
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schooner leather |
A handsewn leather boatshoe. |
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scotch grained calfskin |
Heavy chrome-tanned side leather with a deeply embossed pebbled surface. |
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Sea Island |
Grown primarily in the West Indies, Sea Island cotton yields one of the longest cotton fibers in the world. Sea Island cotton has the softness of cashmere and the luster of silk, providing unrivaled comfort and luxury. |
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seed stitch |
A knitted stitch pattern resembling a seed in shape. |
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seersucker |
Washable fabric with crinkled stripes made by altering the tension of the warp threads. It comes in stripes, plaids, checks, or prints, and is used for sportswear, pajamas, and robes. |
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self belt |
A belt made of the same material as the garment with which it is worn. |
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self collar |
Same fabric as the rest of the shirt. |
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shawl collar |
A turned-over collar of a garment that combines with the lapel forming an unbroken curving line. |
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shearling |
Skin of a tanned sheep with the wool retained; used for lining material with the wool side in or out, for outerwear. |
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shetland wool |
Warm, lightweight wool from sheep raised on the Shetland Islands, off the Scottish coast. |
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shift |
A loose-fitting or semi-fitted dress. |
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shirring |
A gathering of fabric made by drawing up the material along 2 or more parallel lines of stitching. |
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shirt jacket |
A jacket designed in the style of a shirt. |
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shirtdress |
A tailored dress patterned after a shirt and having buttons down the front. |
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signature tattersall |
Distinguishing fabric woven or printed in a tattersall pattern, namely a pattern of colored lines forming squares of solid |
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silk charmeuse |
A fine, semi-lustrous crepe in a satin weave, made of silk. |
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silk chiffon |
A very sheer fabric made of silk. |
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silk crepe de chine |
A type of silk that is tightly twisted to give it a crinkled look. |
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silk organza |
A sheer dress fabric resembling organdy and usually made of silk. |
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silk ottoman |
Textured, closely woven fabric of raised crosswise ribs, made of silk; used for neckwear. |
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silk satin |
Silk fabric with a highly lustrous surface and usually a dull back; it is made in different weights according to its uses. |
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silk shantung |
Nubby silk fabric, used for suits, accessories, and sportswear. |
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silk tussah |
Creeper drier hand spun 100% silk with more natural form. |
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silver plate |
Having a thin coating of silver applied to an item. |
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single breasted |
Closing with a narrow overlap and fastened down the front with a single row of buttons. |
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siped sole |
A siped sole is engineered with water-channeling grooves, troughs or slits, which provide rock-solid footing even when wet or on wet surfaces. |
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skimmer |
A fitted, sleeveless dress, usually with a flaring skirt. |
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slash pockets |
Pocket set into a slash opening, usually vertically or at a slight angle. |
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slide buckle |
A buckle to be used with a strap belt that does not have holes at the end for inserting the prong. |
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sodalite |
A transparent to translucent mineral, it has a vitreous or greasy luster. |
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soft roll polo collar |
Also called a button-down collar, where the points are held down by small buttons at the points. It was invented in England by polo players, thus its name. |
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split toe |
A style of shoe where the toe cap, or tip of the shoe, has vertical stitching down the center front. |
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spun silk |
Shorter lengths of silk filaments that are spun together much as cotton or wool yarns are spun. Spun silk is soft, but not as lustrous, strong, or elastic as reeled silk. It is less expensive, and is used in summer wash silks and dress trimmings. |
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stainless steel |
An alloy of steel with chromium (and sometimes another element) that is practically immune to rusting and ordinary corrosion. |
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stem |
Attaches the crown to the watch. |
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sterling silver |
A standard of 925 parts of silver to 75 parts of copper in the silver alloy. |
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stirrup pant |
A pant with a piece of fabric or elastic attached at the bottom of the leg. This is generally used to keep the pant leg inside one's boots. The stirrup can be permanent or detachable. |
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stonewashed |
A washing process during manufacture that includes use of abrasive stones to create a softer look. |
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storm flap |
On a zip front jacket, it is the flap that snaps closed over the zipper for added protection from the weather. |
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studs |
A set of solid buttons with a shank or eye on the back inserted thru a buttonhole; used on dress shirts and formal shirts. |
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suede |
Leather in which the flesh side of the skin is buffed to a velvet finish, giving it a nap. |
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Supima |
Brand name of oxford cloth made of unusually long-staple cotton fibers from the southwestern part of the United States. |
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tab collar |
Has an easy to use snap or button tab, which is attached to the collar. |
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tab shorts |
Has an easy to use snap or button tab, which is attached to belt loop area. |
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taffeta |
Plain weave fabric of silk or other fibers that is finished smooth on both sides and has a sheen. |
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tartan |
A plaid design of Scottish origin consisting of stripes of varying widths and colors usually patterned to designate a distinctive clan. |
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tassel loafers |
A men's low step-in dress shoe with a tassel trim on the vamp of the shoe (top of the foot). |
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tattersall |
A uniformly square pattern of lines of two or more colors forming squares on a solid background. |
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tennis cardigan |
A button-front cardigan, usually with a v-neck, tipping trim, and sometimes with cable detailing. |
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tennis collar |
Traditional shirt collar-not buttoned down (also known as the Forward Point Collar). |
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tennis skirt |
An elastic waist, short, slightly flared skirt; very comfortable for easy movement. |
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terry cloth |
A fabric having uncut loops on both sides. It can be solid or patterned. |
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thermographed |
Transfer printing from paper. |
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thompson fit |
Pleat-front, straight cut through hip and thigh, straight leg opening. |
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three-ply cashmere |
A particularly soft and lightweight three-ply fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-haired Kashmir goat. Because only a few ounces are obtained from each goat, this luxurious fiber is scarce and very costly. |
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throat latch |
The extra throat latch itself has three holes. The middle hole is used to attach it to the lapel when not in use. The two end holes are used to secure the lapels together when the collar is turned up. |
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ticket pocket |
A small pocket on the right-hand side of a jacket or coat just above the regular pocket. It provides a conveniently accessible place for tickets or coins. |
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tipping |
A band or strip of fabric or other material at the edge (neck, sleeve, hem, etc.) of a garment. |
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toggle |
A crosspiece of wood, metal, or other material attached to a rope, cord, or chain and designed to be inserted in the loop of a cord as a closure on a garment. |
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track stripe |
A fabric pattern resembling railroad tracks. |
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Traditional fit |
The Brooks Brothers shirt, it is a generously cut shirt with a box pleat on the back which allows for a more comfortable fit. It is suggested for the man who prefers a loose fitting shirt. |
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trench coat |
A double-breasted raincoat with deep pockets, wide belt, cape yoke, shoulder epaulets, and an extra deep inverted back pleat. |
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tropical wool |
Suiting weighing from 6 to 11 ounces per yard, made in a variety of weaves; it is used for suits and sportswear. |
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trouser skirt |
A skirt styled after a man's trousers, with fly front, constructed waist, and usually belt loops. |
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TSA |
Transportation Security Administration |
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tweed |
Rough twilled fabric made with several different shades of wool to give it a distinctive flecked appearance |
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twill |
Basic weave characterized by diagonal lines on the surface of the fabric. |
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Ultra-Fresh |
An anti-bacterial finish that protects against odors. |
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v-neck |
A neckline shaped like a letter V. |
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valet key fob |
A 2-ring key holder, 1 of which detaches from the holder and is used for valet parking, etc. when you don't want the attendant to have all of your keys. |
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valet stand |
A device (as a rack or stand) for holding clothing or personal effects. |
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vamp |
The section of the upper part of a shoe extending forward to the toe cap and part or all of the way to the rear seam. |
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vegetable dyes |
Natural dyes obtained from flowers, nuts, berries, and other forms of plant and vegetable life. |
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velcro |
Name for a hook-and-loop fastener consisting of 2 tapes. One has little hooks; the other, tiny self-loops. When pressed together, they hold together with considerable strength. |
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vellum |
A strong, durable cream-colored paper. |
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velvet |
A clothing fabric characterized by a short, soft dense pile. |
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venetian nubuck |
Style of shoe ( penny without the stay across the top.) & leather that has been brushed to give it suede like nap. |
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vermeil |
A gold finish on sterling silver that is durable and tarnish-resistant. |
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versatile plaid |
A pattern consisting of colored stripes which cross each other at right angles. This design can be used with different color garments. |
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viscose |
A viscous golden-brown solution made by treating cellulose with caustic alkali solution and carbon disulfide and used in making rayon. |
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waffle pique |
A cotton fabric made in a honeycomb weave, and used for sportswear. |
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waistcoat |
A vest usually worn under a tuxedo jacket. |
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watch pocket |
A small pocket just below the waistband of men's trousers. |
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welt construction |
A shoe construction using a narrow strip of welting onto which the outsole and ribbed insole are stitched. |
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welt pocket |
A set-in pocket with one wide band at the opening; usually found as the chest pocket on a sportcoat. |
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windowpane |
Design formed by stripes running vertically and horizontally in an arrangement resembling the framework of a window. |
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wing collar |
A collar style resembling a wing in appearance, where the tips of the collar extend out like wings. |
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wing tip shoe |
A shoe with a tip shaped like the spread wing of a bird, pointed in the center and extending toward the rear on both sides. It has heavily perforated seams and toe-cap design. |
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wool crepe |
A light crinkled woven fabric made of wool. |
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wool flannel |
A soft twilled wool fabric with a loose texture and a slightly napped surface. |
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wool pile |
Fabric with loops on the surface, sometimes uncut. This fabric has a deep nap. |
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worsted wool |
More durable than regular wool, resistant to dirt, holds creases & shape. |
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wrap coat |
A full cut outercoat without a button closure, worn wrapped around the body and held in place by a tied or buckled belt. |
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wrap skirt |
A skirt that is made with a full length opening and adjusted to the body by wrapping it around the body and fastening it at the waist. |
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wrinkle free |
Eliminates wrinkles thru chemically treated cotton. |
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yarn-dyed |
A fabric in which the yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting. |
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yoke |
A fitted or shaped piece at the shoulders of a shirt. |